Initially India..

Matrimonial update

2009-08-23T01:41:00.000-07:00

Half of the enjoyment reading Times of India is going through the classified matrimonial section where Indian parents place adverts for their children. Not to forget - divided according to caste (absolutely crazy).

AFFLUENT Hi-Status family seeks Beautiful, Educated, Cultured girl for the Highly Educated Intelligent Hi-Value GB NM Boy. 31/5’7 Salary US$ 6 Figure. Early marriage.

MATCH 4 Guar Brahim Veg. TT Boy 27/5’10/B.Tech/7LPA/MNC Hyderabad. Parents retired gazzetted offrs. Settled Gurgaon seeks B.Tech/BE/CA fair skin, working girl. Early marriage.

MARWARI Agarwal 37/5’8. Twice Divorcee Boy. Tea Planter, Real Estate, Fair Complexion. Require Educated, Intelligent, Business Background, Fair-looking Marwari Divorcee Girl.

Some however are a bit more “easy going” on the fair skin/caste issue..

HANDSOME Yayday boy M.S USA 30/5’11 working in USA. Visiting India Aug. Caste no bar.

PQM for Jain 25/5’5 NM Beatiful BE/MBA working girl. Status family. Father practicing Cardiologist.

Perhaps Match.com isn’t so bad after all…

Hurricane of thoughts

2009-08-22T23:19:00.000-07:00

I must be the world's worst blogger.

Have had blog-thought-overload in my head the past few days and haven't been able to write a single word.

My apologies.

Sometimes there are just too many thoughts and ideas whirling around in my head, making it difficult for me to connect with planet earth and put it all down in words.

Hurricane of thoughts.

Plus some things are not meant for sharing to everyone. Even though I have a tendency not to live by that rule..

I think I am landing now. The storm is gentler and I can see the ground.

Doing da Delhi

2009-08-20T05:58:00.000-07:00

Back in Delhi. Feeling good (and properly clean for the first time in weeks..!)

Many things in the air right now. Have been busy writing and sketching ideas. Over heated in my head as well as outside. Well-needed and appreciated siesta this afternoon.

Now off to dinner with a friend of my father who is here for a conference with WHO. Will be fun to meet this man, hear all about what's going in the world of climate change as well as getting a Kiwi update (the man is Swedish but lives and works in New Zealand).

Lalala-later people!

Return to Delhi

2009-08-18T21:09:00.000-07:00

Last day in Kancheepuram.

Went for a run this morning and almost threw up when I got back. Something with the air, food, heat here. I don't know, but I sure don't feel like a marathon runner anymore..

Will be sad to leave today, but am also looking forward to a proper hot shower, clean clothes and a big (although hard as always in India) bed. Not forgetting a weekend catching up with friends in Delhi!

Will most likely be back in the Hand in Hand village sooner than later. Many project ideas spinning in my head. More to come on that matter in the future...

Auroville and back to Kancheepuram

2009-08-18T05:21:00.000-07:00

After spending a lovely weekend in Pondicherry and celebrating Indian Independence day, I made a quick, one-night-stop in Auroville.

Rue Dumas and naturally-the three Musketeers!

Can never keep myself from monkey business..

Indias new generation celebrating Ghandi and Independance Day

Auroville is a universal town where men and women of all countries aim to live in peace and progressive harmony, conscious of and researching into sustainable living and the future cultural, environmental, social and spiritual needs of mankind. I was planning to explore Auroville more but an exciting opportunity came up, making me change my plans and return to Delhi already tomorrow.

"the Canyon" created by Kireet in Auroville

Garden of Eden or Gaia's Garden, Auroville

Gustav, Ebba and I

Having still quite a bit to do for Hand in Hand, I made the close to three hour journey back to Kancheepuram in the traditional Indian Ambassador style last night.

Today I have visited and conducted interviews with several of the entrepreneurs stemming from the self-help groups managed by Hand in Hand. Focus of today’s visits was the so called Citizen Centers (computer/telecom centers) or amongst HiH employees, more commonly known as CCs.

The goal with the CCs is to offer entrepreneurs a microfinance loan that enable them to buy computer(s), printer, photocopying machines etc and create an income generating businesses as well as a venue where people come together and discuss important issues that will help increase transparency and awareness of the developmental works initiated by the local pantheist leaders (local Indian government).

After visiting several of the centers today. It is clear that it is a challenge and a half. The CCs we visited were most likely making some profit, however exactly how much was impossible to find out as the entrepreneurs had no idea themselves. When crunching them on figures they gave us answers that simply did not add up. No logbook was kept with amount of users or how much each user paid.

We eventually concluded that if they still existed after 1-2 years and were paying off the loan given to them by Hand in Hand – they must be making “some” profit.

Some of the centers were better managed than others; making use of the location being opposite a school and offering computer games, or if the centre was in area with many business offices and then offering photo, printing and copying services that are frequently sought for in India.

I am still gathering my data and will need even more before putting together a full case study. I have no doubt that the Citizen Centers carry huge potential but they need to be supported, controlled (by HiH?) and followed up in a structured way for the entrepreneurs to make them successful to their full extent.

Citizen Centre

Interview with Sathya, female entrepreneur

Some of the services offered.
Great services but could do with some marketing skills..

The Pondicherry Musketeers

2009-08-15T21:43:00.000-07:00

I have had the best weekend with my two new lovely friends, Ebba and Gustav,

Having only met the last week, we have now turned in to a great Musketeer trio - each and everyone of us having our defined role.

Gustav - the magic webmaster, photographer and midnight music radio channel

Ebba - the caring mother and sweetness itself, making sure that everyone has enough food and toilet paper..(!)

Kristina - the doer; ensuring drinks (includes dealing with Pondicherry big boss during Indian after hours for liquor) and ordering coffee (veeery strong and veeeery hot)

Will miss them a lot when we part today; they return to Kancheepuram and I continue to Auroville. Hopefully we will reunite back in the Hand in Hand village soon.

The Indians were pretty chocked when we checked in, 2 girls and 1 guy, all in the same room and one large bed..

Ready for Pondicherry by night

Gustav shaved off his beard into a moustache and played the character of a German in lederhosen for the night

The Lighthouse rooftop, Pondicherry

Good night from the Hand in Hand trio!

Hand in Hand, Kancheepuram

2009-08-14T00:22:00.000-07:00

Kancheepuram (2 hrs south of Chennai) is the name of the village where Swedish NGO, Hand in Hand, has its main hub and where I have been hanging out the past week, absorbing everything there is to know about micro loans, women empowerment and child labour elimination.

For those of you who haven’t heard of the organisation, Hand in Hand is founded by Percy Barnevik (former CEO of ABB) and has been operating in Tamil Nadu (southern tip of India) since 1998. What started out as a small village project, has in just a few years, expanded into a global organisation (India, Afghanistan, South Africa) with over 22.000 employees and volunteers.

I contacted Hand in Hand (HiH) first thing upon my arrival in India. Knowing that I wanted to gain work experience with a NGO, I contacted MANY organizations, however HiH was the only one that after – ok, a lot of persistence from my side), invited me to visit the head office and the villages in which they operate in Tamil Nadu and do some case studies on the various programs that they run. Seems strange to me that it’ should be so difficult to volunteer. I mean that’s just it VOLUNTEER. I pay for my own travel and work for free. Of course once here in Tamil Nadu, HiH put me up with bed and board so I am very thankful!

But most of all I am thankful for the rich experiences and amazing impressions I am getting here. From the ever so beautiful and happy village children (whom many have been taken out of child labor and put in to school thanks to HiH), to the entrepreneurial skills and drive amongst traditionally unskilled and unenlightened rural Indian women, and last but not least the two lovely Swedish interns that I have gotten to know here, Ebba and Gustav. In fact the three of us are heading down to Pondicherry and Auroville for the weekend – but that is of course a different story all together..

By co-incidence I also met with HiH International Director, Leni Söderberg, who happened to be visiting over a few days. It turns out that it is indeed a very small world as over dinner when talking, it pops out that she is a friend of my boss (BTS CEO, Henrik Ekelund), whom she is having lunch this coming Sunday. Madness. Pure madness. There I am, in the middle of the nowhere fighting the heat and dust, having dinner with a few people I’ve just met and turns out that we already have friends in common. Small small world. Of course dinner turned in to a long spin of opportunities that perhaps I will be able to share with you in the future.. We shall see!

Pictures from the past few days!

Leaving Chennai (gladly..)

Hand in Hand's headquarters in Kancheepuram

First stop was visiting a resedential boys school, sponsored by HiH

Hyperactive children are tought yoga and meditation. Imagine a Western child sitting down like this during school hours? Don't think so. We may teach the Indians, but we also have plenty to learn from them..

Digital cameras are hugely popular

Sheela recieved a micro loan and opened up a bakery - today very succesful with nine employees

and yummy too!

HiH sponsors a 2 month tailor training for women between 18-30 yrs old

Tali -traditional south indian lunch

Training to become a beautician is also very popular amongst indian girls

Me wants but no time..

2009-08-07T08:06:00.000-07:00

I had all these great ideas and postings that I was planning to do today.

Being the time optimist that I am. Well.. I am not so optimistic anymore.

My colleague, Olof, is arriving for drinks any minute and then we are of for a lovely dinner with a big group of friends.

100% good night Delhi-delight dinner & drinks tonight!

Shaping up

2009-08-06T22:16:00.000-07:00

My friend Linda has just come back after four weeks holiday in Sweden living the good life.

A little bit too much of the good life according to herself and her waist that apparently has expanded a bit over these weeks (not that I've noticed any of this).

Anyway.

Below you see evidence of Linda's serious attempt to get back in shape. This is what she calls "excercise".

Should I be concerned?

Reference

2009-08-06T05:38:00.000-07:00

A reference to my last posting on Swedish buns -read Flith & Food first (2 postings down)

Swedish buns back in Delhi

2009-08-06T05:20:00.000-07:00

Mail correspondance between Stina "the-Delhi-bun-baking-lady", Linda and I..

From: Stina Almroth [mailto:stinaalmroth@yahoo.com] Sent: Thursday, August 06, 2009 5:18 Subject: Back in Delhi & BAKING Back in Gurgaon & baking
This is to let you know that I am back and ready to bake buns, cakes and breads when I am not working on my other business plans. Prices (attached) are still the same as in the spring.While I figure out some delivery system, you can always pick your baked goodies up at my place in Phase III in Gurgaon. If you are in Delhi, I do go to there often.
If you have friends and colleagues who may wish to try some Swedish home-baked buns, breads or cakes, please forward this email to them with a copy to me so I can add them to my mailing list for future updates.I look forward to baking for you, Stina TO ORDER, EMAIL: stinaalmroth@yahoo.com ; OR CALL: +91-98105 21347

From: Linda.Johansson@hm.com Linda.Johansson@hm.com
Subject: FW: Back in Delhi & BAKING Date: Thursday, August 6, 2009, 2:04 PM
Stina´s bread and cinnamon buns are amazing!
Worth trying and spread the word...
Linda

From: Kristina Elinder [mailto:kristina_elinder@yahoo.com] Sent: Thursday, August 06, 2009 5:40 PMTo: Johansson Linda (INCOC)
Subject: FW: Back in Delhi & BAKING
Ok, so you think we need to fill up with MORE food??
Elsa's 24 around-the-clock-cooking is not enough for Linda lorangalady. I get it.

Najs.

FYI - steaming hot lasagna is waiting for you when you get home..

Words of Wisdom

2009-08-04T20:46:00.000-07:00

Good morning!

I recently bought a book called "Wisdom, 365 thoughts from Indian Masters".

It's a wonderful book with beautiful pictures and a word of wisdom for each day.

Thought I'd start this morning by sharing the thought of the day, by Indian Nobel Prize winner in literature, Tagore:

August 5th

Wherever there is a touch of color, a note of a song,
grace in a form, this is our call to love.
- Rabindranath Tagore

With love,

Filth and food

2009-08-04T01:51:00.000-07:00

Linda is back!

Hooraaay!!

Once she left for her first day in the office after four weeks of holiday, I am left alone in the house. Me, the computer, my coffee. Solo. Totalmente.

Actually this is not quite true as Elsa the maid is here, busy cooking in the kitchen.

Elsa should be called the cook instead of the maid. Because more than anything this is what she does. In fact I am prepared to take it as far as claiming that Elsa HATES to clean but LOVES to cook.

Sunday she came around (after several peaks from me that perhaps she should polish the windows, clean the bathroom etc before Madam Linda gets back). I know that being the "guest" in the house, I am not really in a position to tell her what to do, but I also know that she will hear it from Linda later anyway, so really - I'm doing her a favour.

Said and done.

Come Sunday and Elsa arrives. I greet her with a big smile. No returning that smile I tell you. I might as well had squeezed bitter lemon in to my mouth.

Elsa is looking very, very gloom. Four weeks (while Linda has been away) of happy cooking and experimenting with various culinary delights is now over.

Linda flew in this morning, showered, got dressed - Elsa swept the floors.
Linda leaves for the office -Elsa is back to cooking.

God knows our fridge is full of couscous, paner curry, aubergine paste, chicken, pita, donuts... How much can a fridge take??

We may be a little filthy in this house. But we are certainly not starving.

To happiness, business & good health

2009-08-03T05:48:00.000-07:00

Krazy k izza back in da buzinezzzz!

Just got home after a looong day in the heat. Within five minutes after stepping outside I was drenched - in my own sweat. My apologies for giving you those details, yet this is the sweet n' sweaty Delhi truth. Whatever thin slice of monsoon Delhi was served last week - it's definately gone now.

Monsoon rain is "shining" with its inexistence. At least that is what you would say in Swedish - regnet lyser med sin frånvaro.. All you Swedes out there know what I'm talking about!

I am in a very good mood, feeling happy and...oh, oh ok..I admit, slightly tipsy.

After ONE beer. And ONE beer only (as Indians would say - "only")!

Anyway..

Here are the reasons for happy:

1) Back and shoulders soooo much better. Only feel pain when waking up in the morning. For the rest - business as usual.

2) Speaking of business - received two of what can be percieved as positive/potentially positive answers from a couple of magazines today; Passion for Business and Omvärlden - two not so minor magazines in Sweden. Nothing 100% yet, but potentially my pitches could turn in to articles.

3) Continuing on the subject of business.. On Saturday I fly down to Goa to check out a friends business plan (for all your FOTC fans out there - you know what I'm talking about..). Continuing down south to Tamil Nadu where I've been invited to do a case study/writing project for HandinHand (Swedish NGO run by Percy Barnevik - former CEO for ABB).

4) Linda Johansson - H&M's Code of Conduct star and my lovely friend who has kindly let me stay in her apartment in Delhi all along whilst she has been on vacation in Sweden, is coming back tomorrow. She may not be as pleased about the fact that her holiday is over - but I am certainly looking forward to catching up with her!

5) My collegeue and friend, Olof, arrives on Wednesday for work. Plan to take him out and show him some good Delhi nightlife scene.

6) Soon enough September will be here when a dear, dear friend of mine, Tove Barnabo, comes to visit!! The India/Nepal tour that I'm planning includes the famous Swedish crayfish party in Mumbai, visit to Nepal and amazing Lamaguan with Dayan, Suresh and the rest, trekking in the Himalayas and tour of Delhi, Agra, Taj Mahal etc.

So here is to happiness, business & good health!

Hunting for an inflatable mattress

2009-07-31T21:41:00.000-07:00

Good beautiful morning!

First some nice relalalaxa by the pool, perhaps a bit of running on the treadmill, then I’m continuing my hunt for an inflatable mattress.

Have looked everywhere in town, but seems very tricky to find.

Every time I step in to a shop and ask for one, eager Indians nod and say:

- Yes, yes madam, we have..

15 minutes later, they come running (drenched in sweat), dragging with them a foam mattress. I kindly clarify that is in fact not an INFLATABLE mattress.

- No madam, but is very good. Look. (and with a lot of effort they somehow manage to fold the rock hard mattress in two)

- Excellent. But folding it in two does not make it INFLATABLE.

- Look madam (now even more excited), we have also this colour..

- Ehhh, yes..? But INFLATABLE? No.

After a looong discussion the poor shop owner scratches his head and comes to the conclusion that:

- Madam, in India I don’t think you can buy inflatable mattress.

????

With a population of 1,2 BILLION people and no inflatable mattresses for sale?

I think not.

Today I am determined to find myself one.

Tribute to mother

2009-07-30T20:03:00.000-07:00

Just pain - no gain.

Finally rolled out bed (yes rolled - because I am not actually able to lift my head, sit up and get out of bed) after no sleep. And by that I mean absolutely NO sleep.

I can not recall since I last was in so much pain. Turns out that lying down - in any position; back, stomach, side, with pillow, without pillow - everything hurts. Even with pain killers.

Walk in to the bathroom, the horrific look that meets me makes me burst in to tears. I've turned in to a swollen chinese gnome (no offense to chinese people - it's just not my look..). Every breath feels like a an iron claw grasping my upper back.

Cramp.

A cramp unlike any other that just won't let go.

Seeing my swollen face, being in constant pain, I turn in to a little girl and call my mum (waking her up in the middle of the night in Sweden) and cry. No crocodile tears, but hysterically crying.

- Will this ever go away? Why is it getting worse? What can I dooooo????

Wonderful, sweet, blessed mother manages to calm me down. Being a physiotherapist she explains (read: looses me) all the latin words for the various parts of my spine, instructs me to some ease & release excerises over the phone and suddenly it all feels a little bit better.

Actually everything but lying down feels better. Guess I won't be sleeping a whole lot the coming 48hrs.

People of Delhi: Be aware of the blonde, chinese gnome coming your way..

35% and slowly getting there..

2009-07-30T09:05:00.000-07:00

Am feeling 100% better!

Ok, now this does not translate in to 1oo% good.

B E T T E R

Still, continuing in percentage, I'd say I'm approximately 35% on my way to being good.

But it's a start and worth focusing on. Positive thinking remember!

Went for a short walk down to C-block market (all resedential areas have names like A, B, C, D block etc). My block (F) is ok, but the real creme-de la-creme-deluxe-block is without a doubt C.

In C block you find stores, a couple of banks, super markets (ok small ones, but they still count!) and most importantly - a beauty saloon where they do mani and pedicures (amongst other things).

The most wonderful part with getting a pedicure in India is that it suddenly includes a massage! And we are not only talking foot and half leg massage here - but a full-on, hard core neck and shoulder massage while your polish is drying. How about that? Not bad huh!

I always choose the longest-possible-to-dry-polish. hehe

All for an amount that's..well not a whole lot.

Actually, just writing this and looking down at my bright red toe nails, pushes me up to a good 40% I think!

World famous..in India

2009-07-29T23:14:00.000-07:00

Seeing that I'm stuck, crippled in bed today as well. I am trying to focus my mind on positive thinking and happy thoughts.

Percy's play with following party is definately one of them.

Apparently Times of India (YES - INDIAS LARGEST NEWSPAPER!!!!) and The Asian Age thought so too!!

Can't find me..?

Well here's a close up!

SNAP

2009-07-29T21:09:00.000-07:00

Was feeling so much better in my back when I went to bed last night .

Morning comes and I wake up. Lying on my stomach in bed I open my eyes, stretch out my arms, lift my head ever so slightly and SNAP.

Dagger in the back.

FFFFF...#%X"?#¤

DAMN it hurt.

DAMN it still hurts. Just sitting, standing, being, breathing HURTS!!!

Emergency call to Yogesh massage guy. He said he will be here in two hours.

Will I survive?

Lots of knots during Monsoon

2009-07-29T10:06:00.000-07:00

Monsoon rain has finally arrived.

Like a beast roaring through the streets; rain, thunder and lightning were hammering down over the dusky streets of Delhi the other night.

Today has been surprisingly "cool". I'm guessing no more than 32 degrees.

Then again I haven't spent a lot of time outside since Monday, when I woke up with a stiff and extremely painful back and upper shoulders.

I did the "dial-a-masseuse" thing and had massage guru Yogesh come by to do some proper knot-hunting on me.

Boy did he find knots alright. Lets just say that my back was KNOT alright. At all.

Pain. Pain. Pain

Today better.

Only good thing with being stuck in bed is that I've got a lot of work done. Or rather pitching for aspirational work. Have sent out at least thirty emails with article ideas to a range of magazines and newspapers. Fingers crossed that I will be busy with some writing projects the coming weeks. Preferably with a head that can turn and sitting upright.

Colors of Nepal

2009-07-24T00:36:00.000-07:00

Back in Delhi after an amazing 10 days in Nepal.

Thank you Dayan, Suresh and everyone in Lamaguan! I will see you again in October.

I wanted to upload a video when the kids from children's home performed Bollywood with the Slumdog Millionaire soundtrack, but it was too large and unfortunately I don't have the editing tools to cut i shorter on my laptop. So this will have to do - Nepali kids shaking it!

Leaving Nepal and going through customs was an experience. I thought security was high in India. But Nepal takes the prize.

Summary:
No times show passport: 8
No times hand luggage security check: 5
No times body security check: 4
No of minutes spent in cues (special cues for women only): 1hr 45 min
No times loosing my patience (after having to unpack my hand luggage for the fifth time..): 1

All in all I guess it is for the good. Better safe than sorry.

Taking off, breaking through the clouds and seeing the mountain peaks rising above was breathtaking.

Sweet Sangita giving me a tour of the village

BBB - Big Beautiful Butterfly

Family

Breakfast

Waiting for the school bus

Milk supply

Milkman

Local village people

Experiencing the solar eclipse in Nepal

2009-07-21T22:31:00.000-07:00

What a morning.

At 05.45 this morning the solar eclipse passed Nepal. This was celebrated with all the children gathered inside, and after being served hot chocolate and chai in the early morning hour, we sat in a circle celebrating the positive energy flow (Puja - see picure below) and everyone made their own Mandala.

Mandala means circle and originates from the classical Indian cultural language of Sanskrit. Mandalas are often used in meditation and symbolize many things, including our centre, wholeness of self, the universe and its spiralling energies and our connection to the community.

Once the eclipse had passed we put on the Earth Song (a tribute to Michael Jackson) and danced. So lovely.

The rest of the morning I’ve spent with the tailors, trying on various pieces that I’ve had made. Will put up photos as soon as they are ready!

Normally, shopping would not be a part of my travel budget, but in this case I know that the money will be directly invested in the community where I have been living for the past week. An investment I am more than happy to sponsor (ok, so it's also a very good excuse to expand my wardrobe..)

Today is my last day before heading back to India. Although I plan to come back to Nepal with a friend end of September as I really want to do some hiking once the monsoon has passed.

Perhaps also stay longer and get serious with my writing..

Morning chai

Baby Sampo in the arms of everyones "auntie" Rita

Eclipse ceremony (Puja)

Working on personal Mandalas

View from the house after the eclipse
See the great Himalaya range in the distance? Unbelievably impressive

BLACK PANTHERS & WILD NEPALI TIGERS!!!

2009-07-20T05:37:00.000-07:00

Internet has been down all day so I just ran the 7km to the nearest internet cafe.

Have arrived just in time to write a few lines and then I have to run back before it gets dark - because that's when all the BLACK PANTHERS and WILD NEPALI TIGERS come out!

This is not a joke. I am quite serious.

Suresh (the man of the house where I'm staying) saw a black panther cross the main road (the only road around here I should add..) the other day.

So: Hello...and Goodbye!

Hoping that there will be better internet tomorrow and that i won't become pather bait on my way home...

// k

A day in the village Lama Gaun, Nepal

2009-07-19T00:10:00.000-07:00

Sunrise at five.
Do you see Mt. Everest in the background? Yes?
Just a tiny, wee, little mountain top in the horizon....?
Yes...? Good - I thought so too!

Henna hand against the front door of my blue hut

My beautiful guesthouse bedroom. So peaceful

Good morning to colorful children

Good morning to "auntie" Rita who is busy preparing chapati for breakfast

and good morning to grandmother!

Day tour of Pharping. Sagar and Manish kindly offered to be our guides

Well-earned paus after climbing many steps up to Buddist tempel

German designer, Simone Goschler, gives her sponsered god child a big hug

Good morning

2009-07-18T22:41:00.000-07:00

Goodbye Simone & Kiera (two German designers) - group picture

Breakfast; fresh fruit grown organically in the garden & home made yoghurt from buffalo milk

The Neverneverland of Nepal

2009-07-17T06:40:00.000-07:00

After a week up in the lush monsoon green of the Himalaya mountains of Nepal, I finally have access to internet.

On the one hand it is lovely to be in a place where mobiles don’t work, internet is 2hrs drive away and where people use buffalos as transport. The flipped side of the coin however is that I’ve been DYING to tell the world how wonderful this place is! How I’ve never seen or experienced anything like where I am now and how I wish everyone would get the chance to live this at least for a few days.

So where am I exactly then..?

I am in Pharping. A small village in the mountains, 35km out of Kathmandu.

It all started on a flight to Madrid a few months ago, when I met a lovely Finnish woman, Dayan, who was on her way to Ibiza with her newborn baby. We started talking and it turned out that she was married to a Nepali man and had been living in India and Nepal the past 14 years. I told her about my plans about coming to India and Dayan convinced me that Nepal was much nicer and that I should come and visit her and her family.

Said and done.

Well, ok so in the end it took me a good three weeks and several Kingfisher beers (too busy enjoying the Delhi night scene), before I actually left India...

But here I am!

Nepal.

The first thing that strikes you when arriving to Nepal, are the smiles. Everyone, and by that I mean EVERYONE, is smiling. When you go to exchange money, there is even a sign saying
“all smiles are welcome”.

The 35km drive from Kathmandu to Pharping took nearly 2hrs, which gives you an idea about the traffic and the roads here.

It was however well worth the ride. We eventually got to a point on the dirt road where we had to leave the car and start climbing steep steps, leading us up through the bush and up in to the mountain itself. Climbing those stairs was a work-out and a half I swear…

In the distance we could hear happy voices, music and singing and we eventually saw the house on the top of the hill, full of children, adults, dogs, birds – you name it. The whole village was there to celebrate Dayan’s son, Sampo, sixth month “birthday”.

For those of you who have seen the movie “Mama Mia” – this is what the house is like – only in a Himalayan setting!

View from the veranda

Before I knew it I had a plate full of dhal, rice and poppadum, a glass of beer and approximately 25 children grabbing my hand, wanting me to dance with them. And danced we did. All night long.

Dayan, her husband Suresh and one of the many children from the children's home, Sagar

The children are all part of the community that Dayan and her husband Suresh have created; running an orphanage/children’s home, school, textile and high-end fashion design line (all fair trade and produced organically and locally), organic garden etc – they are in other words completely self sufficient, living of what they produce on their land.

But back to the children.

I have never in my life encountered such a mixed group of children, ranging in the ages of 4-26, boys and girls - all dancing, playing and being fully content together. They all have their reasons for being part of Dayan’s and Suresh community. Many of them coming from homes where the parents are either dead, drunks or just so poor that they can’t afford to take care of them.

Local girls perform traditional Nepali dances

One of the beautiful little girls from the children's home, admiring the dance with great seriousness..

Dayan told me that just the other day a little girl arrived with her old grandmother who more or less just left her on the doorstep. The mother had committed suicide and the father was a drunk that used to beat the little girl. Another child was basically more or less brought up by a hound of dogs and didn't speak a word when some village people left her on the steps of Dayan and Suresh home. Now they have found a sponsor for both children; they are living in the children’s home, being fed, going to school and growing up as healthy children.

Oh, and smiling of course!

Every child has a sponsor (usually a private person) who pays for schooling and/or board in the orphanage. To sponsor a child costs approximately 500 euros/year which includes full board and schooling. Little money for a westerner but when you see what it does for these children, it’s truly mind blowing.

I dare say, that despite the sad backgrounds that many of these children have, they seem to be happier, healthier and more life-loving than any other child I’ve met before. I asked Dayan if they ever fight as in the past week I’ve spent here so far, I haven’t heard one child cry, scream or even show the slightest bit of anger or frustration.

- No, they would only cry if they are sick or hurt themselves. Amongst each other, there is no jealousy, everyone shares what there is to share and they all help out with cooking, cleaning, gardening and whatever needs to be done.

So what’s the catch?

You are probably thinking it can’t be this good. Is it some kind of a sect or..?

The answer is simply no.

In no way or form is there any ritual, sect-like or any other religion that is predominant in this house. I myself (having visited Ashrams as well) am rather sceptical to these societies where you are supposed to follow a certain order, pray and meditate all day. I respect people who choose that lifestyle, but it is definitely not for me.

This house is like an open home where the main criteria is that you are easy-going, relaxed, enjoy life and take it for what it is. A happy and sound spirituality.

Dayan and Suresh are truly extraordinary people who have worked hard for their beliefs and chosen to give back to people who are less fortunate.

Anyone for chai?

As I mentioned earlier, besides the children’s home and school that they run, they also have a Fairtrade textile production where they produce their own design – Khandro Design.

Ladies – all ya ladies – here me out!!

NYC, Sex & the City and Ibiza meets Nepal!!

From slinky silk dresses, wild leather belts and bags to the softest and most precious Kashmir woolen jumpers – all is grown, weaved and produced locally. I have seen the workshop myself and there is absolutely nothing “sweat-shop-labour” about it. The men (no children) are all well paid and very fortunate to have such a good job.

Having the production in the middle of the mountains, where a generator provides electricty, water is limited and everything has be transported from Kathmandu (2hrs drive remember) -Fairtrade obviously comes with a price. The designs which are sold in Europe (Spain, Norway, Germany, and Finland) are directed to a high-end audience who are prepared to pay for exclusive, high-class/quality design.

For some reason they have no distribution to Sweden and I am seriously considering bringing some samples back. Take a look at the photos below and let me know if you are interested! What you see is either pure silk and/or mixed with finest kashmir, all hand made/knitted. Prices range from 70 euros - 200 euros, depending on the piece.

Cheap, no.

Highest quality, unique design and for a very good cause? Yes.

This was a looooong post – I know, but there was so much to tell (and I haven’t even started telling you about my visit to Kathmandu, or that I ended up in the entertainment section of the largest Indian newspaper - Times of India - shaking my booty until sunrise..)

Oh, la, la..

"Initially India" has started well.

Very well.

Pharping, Nepal

2009-07-14T05:00:00.000-07:00

I have arrived in Nepal and am currently staying in the small village of Pharping. Well actually 7km out of Pharping, which really is in the middle of nowhere. Just beautiful serene surroundings of green monsoon lush!

The past 24hrs have been so filled with impressions that I'm hardly able to put it down in words.
Incredible will have to do for now. Have never seen anything like the place where I am staying at the moment in my entire life.

Have no internet at the moment (had to run the 7km to find this connection). As soon as I am better connected I will post pictures and write more about the place where I am staying.

Love,

k

Trailer trash

2009-07-12T10:58:00.000-07:00

It's very late and I still haven't packed for Nepal (leave early tomorrow morning).
Just came back from a variety Cabaret show where I was called in last minute to perform - perform a country song as a trailer trash chick. Little did I know that everyone else were brilliant and having only rehearsed the song twice, I pretty much felt like trailer trash once I was up on stage in front of a packed audience. My outfit was trashy, my make up was trashy and unfortunately I felt that so was my singing (as I didn't know the lyrics and had never heard the song before).

Oh well. Trash happens.

You got to take risks in life or else you might miss out on those rare gems that sometimes are hidden in trash.

All away on Summer holiday..

2009-07-10T03:31:00.000-07:00

Just emailed out to my colleagues about this blog.

I had hardly pressed the "send email" button before I had 37 new emails in my inbox.

Wow! What a response - and so fast!

Miss super popular was naturally my first thought.

However... Below follows an extract of the 'highly personalized' emails I received.

"I will be out of the office from whenever I leave this office. If you require a timely response, please contact someone. Anyone, but me."

"I am out of the office until Christmas, and will only read emails occasionally. If even that. So don't get your hopes up. For urgent matters please dont't call and definately do not, I repeat DO NOT try my mobile number!!!"

"I am on paternity leave until August 2025 (or perhaps forever).."

"I am out of the office, returning on Sunday July 12th at 1.15pm. Sharp."

" My holiday started today and according to my boss I should've been back in the office yesterday already. Yours Sincerely, 24/7 from the XX office.."

Anyone dare to guess where the different people work in the world (based on the return date from their holiday)?

Loose motions - only in India

2009-07-09T01:16:00.001-07:00

Just received the following text message from Elsa, Linda's maid.

"Hi. Madam i have a bad loos mosion pls i will come tommro morning. Elsa"

Translation nr1 - mosion = motions

Translation nr2 - loose motions = runny... well you've got it. Mostly known as bad stomach.

Elsa can't read or write (however she is a magnificent cook), so she must have asked her husband to write it for her.

Bless.

You always love someone for their shortcomings

2009-07-08T10:27:00.000-07:00

Isn't ironic that just because I write that I love (and want) comments,
I get none.

Oh well, doesn't matter because I've had a lovely evening; dinner with friends at chilled out Morrocan place, Shalom, just around the corner from where I live.

The place itself was lovely, but not a day passes by without me commenting on the service in India - in a very friendly way if I may say so. I may be impatient (ok.. veeery impatient), but I am certainly not the unfriendly kind. However, I do see the enormous (and by that, I do mean ENORMOUS) potential for improvement when it comes to service in this country.

To give you an idea;

Drinks - in an empty place it takes a minimum of 30 minutes to get your order (adding the 15min for them to notice that you're even there)
Food - you're lucky if you get what you ordered and twice as lucky if you get it when everyone else is having their meal
Pay - 12,5% VAT for food, 19-20% VAT extra added for liquor (even though the menu states that it is included)
Wine: Don't even consider asking about recommendations as they haven't a clue

However...

There are few people in the world like the Indians who sincerely mean to do well and will go way beyond there comfort zone (according to Western standards) to do so.

And for this I raise my glass and say cheers.

Comments - yes please

2009-07-08T02:05:00.001-07:00

Just noticed that I have received a few comments on previous contributions - and hör och häpna (swedish expression that literally translates in to "hear & be amazed", although doesn't have quite the same catch to it ..) - they weren't from anyone I knew. In other words I must have other readers out there in cyber space!

Makes me very happy!

I am fully aware of that this blogg i mainly for friends and family to update themselves on what is going on in my life, but hey - can I attract a broader audience and if you have ideas on what you'd like me to write about. I'm all for it.

Thank you for reading and thank you for letting me know that you are reading!

Keep those comments coming.

English readers - I welcome you!

2009-07-08T01:19:00.000-07:00

Good morning, good day, good evening to y'all - wherever in the world you may be!

I originally started this blogg in a low-fashioned key, writing in Swedish. I am now officially upgrading myself and will continue to write in English. Who knows, one lovely day you might log on to find this blogg in Hindi...!

God bless.

After feeling rather torn between staying in Delhi for another week or going to Nepal. I have finally decided to stay in Delhi. There are so many things happening here right now in terms of people I meet, potential writing opportunities etc that it would be stupid for me to leave.

However, I DO plan to go to Nepal. In fact, I WILL be going to Nepal. This coming Monday to be precise.

A wonderful Finnish woman I met on a flight to Madrid a few weeks ago has invited me to come and stay with her and her Nepalese husband. They live in a small village 30km outside Kathamandu, where they run several businesses such as production of ecological design wear (that they export to high-end customers in Europe and the US by the way), a childrens school and an orphanage - amongts many other things. I mean - there's a great story right there!

How about if everyone would be as warm and opened-minded. The world would be a better place.

Ok, I admit. I am slightly emotionally (de)affected after having watched the MJ memorial service on TV last night. Seriously, I'm not even a big fan, but the guy certainly did make some pretty big changes (and I'm not reffering to his face..).

Love,

k

Liten tjej med stora drömmar

2009-07-06T06:18:00.001-07:00

Efter en dag som började med en rad dåliga nyheter, har jag lämnat lägenheten och sitter och på kafé på Khan Market (med internet - otroligt!) och jobbar på en artikel om Tata Nano och dess implikationer på miljön, "Liten bil med stora konsekvenser".

Ni kommer såsmåningom kunna läsa artikeln på ETC (tidning för undersökande journalistik, djuplodande intervjuer och lumpna påhopp) - enligt dem själva.

Kramar från "liten tjej - med stora drömmar"

Cowboys of Delhi

2009-07-04T23:11:00.000-07:00

Måste sluta med alla dessa sena nätter. Jag har helt vänt på dygnet, kommer sällan i säng förrän solen går upp och sover bort halva dagen. Å andra sidan är det, trots monsunen som börjat närma sig, alldeles för varmt att vara ute mitt på dagen.

Delhi är Indiens Madrid minus churros till frukost klockan 7 på morgonen.

Igår var det fjärde juli och flera ambassader tog tillfället i akt att fira. Min kväll började med lite drinkar på en god väns fantastiska roof-top alldeles runt hörnet från där jag bor.

Vilken oas det var!

Mitt i kaosets Delhi kliver man in i en lägenhet, med en egen slingrande trappa som leder upp till en enorm takterass med vidunderlig utsikt över New Delhi. Terassen var fylld med växter, ljusslingor och som grädden på moset - en bardisk i sten i ena hörnet. Som att kliva in i Edens lustgård.

Bilden återger tyvärr inte hur fantastiskt mysigt det var. Men lite känsla kanske ni kan få.

Där satt vi en bra stund innan vi for vidare till nästa anhalt som var en kanadensisk ambassadfest med tema cowboy.

Intressant minst sagt..

Som hämtad ur vilda västern.

Nej mamma - jag röker inte! It's just for the shot..

Partyglada kommer i alla former här i Delhi - and I love it!

Eleanor och Jasper (Storbritanniens blivande premiärminister mån tro..?)

Att älska färg

2009-07-03T14:00:00.000-07:00

Älskar Delhi. Älskar Indien.

Älskar att gå på fest där drinkarna inte är uppradade efter smak, där samtalen inte krestar kring jobb, antal kvadratmeter eller dagisplatser och där musiken inte är förprogrammerad.

Ikväll har jag (efter en 2,5 h svettig tennismatch) pratat med och shakat loss till Shakira och Michael Jackson med alltifrån frilansande journalister, diplomater, arbetssökande, fotografer till FN-delegater. Ett brett spektra på människor ger ett brett spektra på livet med alla dess färger och nyanser.

Med det till hands är antalet konstverk obegränsade.

Inne i dimman men är snart ute på banan igen..

2009-07-03T04:37:00.000-07:00

Som i en dimma är hur jag bäst skulle kunna beskriva dagen idag.
Kom inte i säng förrän halvsju imorse (maharaja hit och maharaja dit - mahahahaohohohaarajahaaaaa - well well...) och sov fram till lunch. Woop, woop!

Betraktar lilla Elsa (maiden i huset) som så nogrannt stryker och viker tvätt medan jag sitter som en förmultnad hösäck och stirrar stint in i dataskärmen.

Usch.

En timme till sen ska jag gaska upp mig. Gaska upp mig till den grad att jag ska iväg och spela tennis på High Commission (den brittiska ambassaden). Närmare Wimbeldon än så går det inte att komma.

High Commission i New Delhi liknar ingenting annat. Allra minst Indien. Det är ett enormt, inhägnat komplex där alla brittiska diplomater bor, äter och jobbar. Utöver tennisbanor finns även fotbollsplan, swimming pool, pub (givetvis) och restaurang. Bor man där behöver man egentligen inte ens göra sig besväret att gå utanför de välbevakade grindarna. Jag menar, what’s the point in being in India?!

Jag bor mycket hellre i ”riktiga” Indien, men är samtidigt tacksam över att ha en vän som bor på High Commission och som bjuder in mig till tennismatcher à la Wimbeldon i miniformat.

Ny match, ny kväll = nya möjligheter!

Ps. Bara så att ni vet är det inte så att jag enbart tänkt hänga i Delhi när det finns så otroligt mycket annat spännande att upptäcka i Indien. Absolut inte! Jag inväntar dock besked från diverse projekt jag satt igång (!) vilket innebär att jag måste vara kvar här några dagar till.. Ds.

I produktivitetens tecken

2009-07-02T07:30:00.000-07:00

Är mycket, mycket nöjd med dagen idag!

1) Vi har äääntligen fått wireless internet installerat. Wohohoooo! 1-0 Sverige-Indien

2) Jag har simmat, solat, tränat och verkligen maxat mitt SVINDYRA 12 ggrs gymkort jag mer eller mindre tvingats till att köpa på The Hyatt. Ni vill verkligen inte veta vad jag betalar. Daniels Westlings gym och alla andra exklusiva gym i Sverige är BUDGET jämfört med detta. Helt galet. Men jag hade verkligen inget val. Vad gör man i 45 graders värme när det inte finns någon allmän pool eller engångsinträde någonstans i den här stan?

3) Har fått en del positiva svar från mina artikel pitchar. Mycket roligt med sådan snabb respons!

4) Nu iväg på "finmiddag" hemma hos någon typ av Maharaja och hans vän (fd kollega till min systers ex). Tydligen är de båda nära vänner till Rahul Gandhi som är värsta heta potatisen här; både vad det gäller politiken efter Kongresspartiets framgång i senaste valet, men även som eftertraktad "bait" - 37 år och singel. Jajemän. Get ready för här kommer krazy!

5) Sist men inte minst planerar jag att avsluta kvällen på en schysst jazz/funky/soul/hip-hip (ok, så jag har lite problem med att definiera exakt vad det för musik - men den är bra iallafall!) club här i stan. Lite mer alternativt ställe med ett kul gäng som lirar. Kanske inte maharajans cup of chai.. men, men då drar jag helt enkelt dit själv.

// eder k

Tips på samhällsmagasin - yes please!

2009-07-02T01:14:00.000-07:00

Dagen börjar som alltid med ett par timmar framför datorn. Har pitchat artikelidéer till olika samhällsmagasin (svenska som engelska) så att fingrarna blöder. Har bl.a. skrivit till Neo, Sydasien, Re:Public, Bang, Fokus etc men tar tacksamt emot tips på liknande magasin!

Har även i copy-paste farten lyckats med drullen att skriva " Bäste XX.. Det vore fantastiskt roligt att skriva för magasin Y.." när jag samtidigt hänsvisar till magasin Z i överskriften. ..

Inte så bra.

Dags för en välförtjänt pause I think. Hyatt pool och gym - here comes krazy.

Ps Och tror ni att wifigubben har kommit än eller..? %#X?@Z # Just det. D.s

Welcome to India

2009-07-01T05:46:00.000-07:00

Jaha, om förra inlägget var en kärleksförklaring till Indien - så kommer nu en mer nyanserad vinkel...

JAG BLIR TOKIG PÅ DETTA LAND DÄR INGET SKER SOM DET SKA!!!

Har suttit inomhus hela dagen. Och då menar jag verkligen HELA dagen. Instängd i en lägenhet i väntan på att en indisk wifi gubbe ska komma och installera trådlöst bredband.

Min bakdel är numera fastklistrad (pga av svett) på en silverpuff. Här har jag suttit framför datorn precis hela dagen. Vi snackar nu alltså waaay beyond träsmak i baken - snarare tusenårig cement..

Hur som helst. Denne wifi gubbe skulle egentligen kommit igår. Men dök han upp - såklart inte.

Nähä, så skulle han komma idag istället. De ringer från Airtel klockan 14 och säger att han kommer inom en timme. En timme går. En och en halv timme går. Tre mutha fck**n timmar går och har han kommit? Svar: NEJ.

Jag får reda på att gubben glömt själva modemet (hur man nu lyckas med det när det är det enda man behöver tänka på som wifi gubbe, är för mig en gåta...) men att han nu är på väg.

Ytterligare en timme passerar.

Nada.

Linda ringer: han är där nu va?

Jag: ööh..nej... (ironsikt) hello, helloooooo- anyone there? Nej minsann, fortfarande ingen gubbe och fortfarande ingen wifi.

Linda: Va?! Airtel sa ju att han var där när jag talade dem nyss. Grrrrrr..

klick.

Halvtimme senare och Linda ringer tillbaka.

- Airtel säger att gubben är på väg men de får inte tag på honom för hans mobil är avstängd. Med andra ord inget Airtel kan göra och uppenbarligen inte deras problem.

Jag ger upp. Träningen, marknaden, middagen jag skulle på - skit samma. Shit the same.

Sitter kvar, fastklistrad på silverpuffen med en rumpa hård som en marmorskiva. Men numera med en iskall Kingfisher. Ska jag sitta här ska det iallafall vara lite klass på't.

Welcome to India.

Intitially India

2009-06-30T23:44:00.000-07:00

Så var det dags för ännu en blogg.

Trots ihärdiga ”nej, jag vet inte om jag kommer blogga..”, ”jag vill inte känna någon press..”, ”jag tar det som det kommer..” etc - så vet de som känner mig att jag har svårt att hålla mig ifrån att skriva. Dessutom är det ett ypperligt verktyg för att sammanfatta allt som händer (och ni slipper massmail).

Så..

Initially India. Ja, det är precis så det här äventyret börjar. I Indien. Sedan vet man aldrig var det bär hän. Allra minst jag. Det är liksom det som är poängen med hela resan. Att åka iväg, vara öppen för allt och alla som kommer min väg. Och att skriva.

En kreativ ”time-out” helt enkelt.

Så här är jag nu, i ett kokande hett (läs: 45 grader..) Delhi. Jag landade på självaste midsommarafton som firades med ett glatt H&M gäng som fixat majstång, blommor, svenskt smörgårdsbord och snaps. De stackars britter som var inbjudna blev smått chockade när vi, efter ett par drinkar, började hoppa som små grodor runt midsommarstången. Nu har hettan stigit dem till huvudet, tänkte de. Galna. Spritt språngande galna.

Ok, så till en början liknande majstången mest en marajuanastång med lite blommor..

En otroligt trevlig kväll som följdes av en otroligt trevlig helg.

På lördagen hamnade vi på ett typiskt farm house party utanför Delhi. Det var en av de roligaste festerna jag någonsin varit på. Varje person jag talade med hade en annorlunda bakgrund och livsstil. Varje person var uppriktigt intresserad av mig, vad jag hade för drömmar och hur de skulle kunna hjälpa till. Varje person log, bjöd på sig själv, skrattade och dansade långt in i den indiska sommarnatten. Det var som att bli injicerad med koncentrat av energi och inspiration.

Den första personen som öppnar dörren till festen är den enda indier jag känner sedan tidigare. Hade absolut ingen aning om att han skulle vara där. Vad är oddsen bland EN MILJARD indier att jag springer på just honom. HELT SJUKT.

Kanske var det för att jag fortfarande var jetlaggad och allmänt berusad av att vara tillbaka i detta fantastiska land. Eller är det de facto så att indier i allmänhet är generösare med att bjuda på sig själva än gemene svensk. Utan prestige och utan avundsjuka. Helt klart en kulturell skillnad där den indiska står i min favör.

Natten avslutade tidigt på morgonen med två otroligt skickliga musiker som började lira piano och gitarr. Jag, i mitt ”I loooove India”-berusade tillstånd, slog mig ned med dem och började jazza. Helt och hållet improviserat. Vi sjöng, spelade och jammade tills solen gick opp och fåglarna började kvittra.

Lagom omtumlad for jag hem från festen med en inbjudan till en audition för musikalen Hair som ska sättas upp i Delhi och sedan turnera runt i Indien. Vad som sker där får ni kanske reda på lite senare i veckan..! Summa summarum var det en magisk kväll som jag så gärna skulle velat haft på film.

Under den gångna veckan har jag hunnit ordna fest på The Global Arts Village (www.globalartsvillage.org), försökt jogga bland galna kor och tuk-tuks, vant mig vid att ha en maid hemma som sköter matlagning och disk, och lärt mig att allting i New Delhi är indelat i blocks; jag bor tex hemma hos Linda i F-block, Louise som vi var hemma hos igår bor på B-block etc. Tydligen var det britternas försök till att styra upp kaoset (det charmiga) som råder i Old Delhi, genom att dela in områden kategoriskt, till snudd på militäriskt i A, B, C, D etc.

Det blev ett långt första inlägg, kände att jag ville sammanfatta veckan som varit.

Den har varit fantastisk!

TACK underbara Linda som låter mig bo hos dig!
TACK alla söta H&M tjejer jag träffat som får mig att skratta och ger mig inspiration till att fortsätta leva ut mina drömmar.
TACK alla underbara vänner och familj som ger mig anledning till att skriva.

Ok, nu exploderade visst sentimental-status-mätaren.

`til next time…

// k