After a week up in the lush monsoon green of the Himalaya mountains of Nepal, I finally have access to internet.
On the one hand it is lovely to be in a place where mobiles don’t work, internet is 2hrs drive away and where people use buffalos as transport. The flipped side of the coin however is that I’ve been DYING to tell the world how wonderful this place is! How I’ve never seen or experienced anything like where I am now and how I wish everyone would get the chance to live this at least for a few days.
So where am I exactly then..?
I am in Pharping. A small village in the mountains, 35km out of Kathmandu.
It all started on a flight to Madrid a few months ago, when I met a lovely Finnish woman, Dayan, who was on her way to Ibiza with her newborn baby. We started talking and it turned out that she was married to a Nepali man and had been living in India and Nepal the past 14 years. I told her about my plans about coming to India and Dayan convinced me that Nepal was much nicer and that I should come and visit her and her family.
Said and done.
Well, ok so in the end it took me a good three weeks and several Kingfisher beers (too busy enjoying the Delhi night scene), before I actually left India...
But here I am!
Nepal.
The first thing that strikes you when arriving to Nepal, are the smiles. Everyone, and by that I mean EVERYONE, is smiling. When you go to exchange money, there is even a sign saying
“all smiles are welcome”.
The 35km drive from Kathmandu to Pharping took nearly 2hrs, which gives you an idea about the traffic and the roads here.
It was however well worth the ride. We eventually got to a point on the dirt road where we had to leave the car and start climbing steep steps, leading us up through the bush and up in to the mountain itself. Climbing those stairs was a work-out and a half I swear…
In the distance we could hear happy voices, music and singing and we eventually saw the house on the top of the hill, full of children, adults, dogs, birds – you name it. The whole village was there to celebrate Dayan’s son, Sampo, sixth month “birthday”.
For those of you who have seen the movie “Mama Mia” – this is what the house is like – only in a Himalayan setting!
View from the veranda
Before I knew it I had a plate full of dhal, rice and poppadum, a glass of beer and approximately 25 children grabbing my hand, wanting me to dance with them. And danced we did. All night long.
Dayan, her husband Suresh and one of the many children from the children's home, Sagar
The children are all part of the community that Dayan and her husband Suresh have created; running an orphanage/children’s home, school, textile and high-end fashion design line (all fair trade and produced organically and locally), organic garden etc – they are in other words completely self sufficient, living of what they produce on their land.
But back to the children.
I have never in my life encountered such a mixed group of children, ranging in the ages of 4-26, boys and girls - all dancing, playing and being fully content together. They all have their reasons for being part of Dayan’s and Suresh community. Many of them coming from homes where the parents are either dead, drunks or just so poor that they can’t afford to take care of them.
Local girls perform traditional Nepali dances
One of the beautiful little girls from the children's home, admiring the dance with great seriousness..
Dayan told me that just the other day a little girl arrived with her old grandmother who more or less just left her on the doorstep. The mother had committed suicide and the father was a drunk that used to beat the little girl. Another child was basically more or less brought up by a hound of dogs and didn't speak a word when some village people left her on the steps of Dayan and Suresh home. Now they have found a sponsor for both children; they are living in the children’s home, being fed, going to school and growing up as healthy children.
Oh, and smiling of course!
Every child has a sponsor (usually a private person) who pays for schooling and/or board in the orphanage. To sponsor a child costs approximately 500 euros/year which includes full board and schooling. Little money for a westerner but when you see what it does for these children, it’s truly mind blowing.
I dare say, that despite the sad backgrounds that many of these children have, they seem to be happier, healthier and more life-loving than any other child I’ve met before. I asked Dayan if they ever fight as in the past week I’ve spent here so far, I haven’t heard one child cry, scream or even show the slightest bit of anger or frustration.
- No, they would only cry if they are sick or hurt themselves. Amongst each other, there is no jealousy, everyone shares what there is to share and they all help out with cooking, cleaning, gardening and whatever needs to be done.
So what’s the catch?
You are probably thinking it can’t be this good. Is it some kind of a sect or..?
The answer is simply no.
In no way or form is there any ritual, sect-like or any other religion that is predominant in this house. I myself (having visited Ashrams as well) am rather sceptical to these societies where you are supposed to follow a certain order, pray and meditate all day. I respect people who choose that lifestyle, but it is definitely not for me.
This house is like an open home where the main criteria is that you are easy-going, relaxed, enjoy life and take it for what it is. A happy and sound spirituality.
Dayan and Suresh are truly extraordinary people who have worked hard for their beliefs and chosen to give back to people who are less fortunate.
Anyone for chai?
As I mentioned earlier, besides the children’s home and school that they run, they also have a Fairtrade textile production where they produce their own design – Khandro Design.
Ladies – all ya ladies – here me out!!
NYC, Sex & the City and Ibiza meets Nepal!!
From slinky silk dresses, wild leather belts and bags to the softest and most precious Kashmir woolen jumpers – all is grown, weaved and produced locally. I have seen the workshop myself and there is absolutely nothing “sweat-shop-labour” about it. The men (no children) are all well paid and very fortunate to have such a good job.
Having the production in the middle of the mountains, where a generator provides electricty, water is limited and everything has be transported from Kathmandu (2hrs drive remember) -Fairtrade obviously comes with a price. The designs which are sold in Europe (Spain, Norway, Germany, and Finland) are directed to a high-end audience who are prepared to pay for exclusive, high-class/quality design.
For some reason they have no distribution to Sweden and I am seriously considering bringing some samples back. Take a look at the photos below and let me know if you are interested! What you see is either pure silk and/or mixed with finest kashmir, all hand made/knitted. Prices range from 70 euros - 200 euros, depending on the piece.
Cheap, no.
Highest quality, unique design and for a very good cause? Yes.
Oh, la, la..
"Initially India" has started well.
Very well.
